I've been making and using wooden spoons since I was a teenager. My first attempts were thick, awkward serving spoons made of maple harvested from a packing crate. Over the years my appreciation for wooden kitchen utensils has grown, and my understanding of the making process has been informed by Scandinavian sloyd techniques. There are many internet resources about sloyd, or handcraft traditions that are still taught in Sweden and Finland, so I won't go into that further, but it's worth a look if you are interested.
My favorite wood species for spoons is pear. The common Bradford pear, Pyrus calleryana, is an underappreciated wood in my opinion. These ubiquitous trees have been used extensively in landscaping and when mature often lose limbs to wind or hurricanes. The wood is extremely dense and fine grained which makes it particularly good for carving or turning. I suspect that the modulus of elasticity is quite high making the wood very stiff which is why even moderate wind loads can break off branches when the yield point is reached. When this happens the trees are often cut down and mulched, usually overlooked as a source for woodworking material. I look for these opportunities to harvest pear wood.
I start by splitting the log along it's axis and use a hatchet to debark and rough out the spoon blank. Spoons can be made entirely with a hatchet and knife but I use my bandsaw for roughing out. I do not recommend this practice to anyone not familiar with a bandsaw. Round stock can easily be grabbed by the blade if not braced, resulting in a broken blade or worse.
I then hollow out the bowl, first with gouges, then the "hook" knife and finally a scraper. The rest of the utensil is shaped with knife and spokeshaves. I use a shaving horse for my chair and stool work and also find this useful to hold spoons during carving. Below are some of the tools that I use.
It's an exercise in pure form to carve a spoon. I think architects and engineers should do this as an exercise in bringing an envisioned idea to reality. Of course, function is the ultimate goal and I try to create utensils that feel good in the hand, are durable and perform their intended tasks well. I've started carving a small flat area on the bottom of spoon bowls so that it can be set down on a flat surface without spilling contents, a handy feature to allow the cook to cool a sample for tasting.
Spoons made from green wood must be dried carefully. The thin wood of the bowl can dry more rapidly than the thicker handle, so I slow down the process by storing partially completed spoons in paper bags. The paper is still porous so drying occurs but at a measured pace. It takes two to three weeks from green stock to dry them enough to continue working on the carving, scraping and sanding. I like the interior of the bowls to be very smooth, which contrasts with the facets of toolmarks elsewhere. My spoons are finished with a wax that I make from food grade mineral oil and beeswax. They are intended to be used and over time develop a lovely patina. Below are some from my own kitchen which have been in use for several years. I stir everything from oatmeal to marina with these. Always handwash your wooden utensils, never put them in the dishwasher. If desired mineral oil can be reapplied periodically. Thanks for your interest.
